The third day of Paris Haute Couture Week for Fall/Winter 2023-2024 presented a contrasting blend of conflicting emotions. From the dark realism of Zuhair Murad to the dreamy creations of Elie Saab, the juxtaposition of the two shows was not contradictory but rather completed a scene like a painting with alternating shades of black and white, just like night and day. As the saying goes, “Opposites attract beauty.” With these words, we can describe the mood of the designers, who conveyed it through the runway and crowned it with the visual spectacle of the third day of the French Haute Couture Week.
The Charm of Black and Zuhair Murad
It's the era of black, which dominated the designer's consciousness, both consciously and subconsciously. Black has never been so captivating, as Zuhair Murad introduced embroidery, lace, and decorative details like sheer veils, head coverings, and red roses embellished on black dresses. Despite the designer's attempt to break the monotony of the color by incorporating white, red, or even blue, black remains the main protagonist, especially in the Fall/Winter 2023-2024 collection.
However, amidst the designer's mood, he did not neglect the timeless rule of the white wedding dress, which shone in a captivating scene. The Zuhair Murad bride appeared in an embroidered gown adorned with white roses, reminiscent of the medieval era, with a high-necked dress featuring long sleeves and a veil covering the face. The designer also completed his creations with gloves made of muslin or lace, adding rich details using feathers and fabric made of rose motifs with voluminous or A-line cuts.
Elie Saab's Surrealism
The creative designer Elie Saab transported us on his wings to an imaginative world beyond imagination. The bride wore a pastel or blush-colored dress that reminded us of the rosy hue of the bride's cheeks. The charm was further enhanced by the low neckline, head accessories, and a cape-like covered sleeves, adorned with embroidery of golden threads and beads. The puffy princess skirt had a vintage touch, evoking romanticism from ancient times. The designer skillfully combined chiffon, rigid tulle, and sturdy velvet in an elegant composition reminiscent of the bygone eras. The models wore flat shoes to complement the overall look.
Expanding Space for Men in French Haute Couture Shows, and Why?
One of the highlights of the French Haute Couture shows for Fall/Winter 2023-2024 was the diminishing space dedicated to women's collections, in contrast to the increasing presence of men's fashion. Sophisticated men's looks have become a demand that asserts itself on the red carpet, and among the designers who showcased gender-inclusive collections, we can mention Charles De Villmorin, Georges Hobeika, and Viktor & Rolf, who featured women's tuxedos with a masculine cut.
Moreover, men no longer appear on the red carpet in monochromatic smoking suits in dark colors. We recall stars like Brad Pitt, who wore a pink suit, and other celebrities who compelled couture designers to change and diversify their designs to cater to all categories and tastes.